Varanasi – A Labyrinth of Time

Kasi or Varanasi is one of the most ancient, famous, and holiest of the holy Hindu pilgrim centers. It is situated between two small streams that flow into the river Ganges, Varana on its northern border, and Asi (or Assi) on its southern border, from whom it derives its name Varanasi. In Rigveda and Skanda Purana, Varanasi is referred to as Kashi.

The name Kashi is derived from either its original founder or a dynasty that ruled it or the kingdom with which it was associated. According to another theory the place might have got its name from a grass named Kusa that grew wildly in the region where the city was built. Throughout the ages, this city was known as Kasika, Avimukta, Anandavana, and Rudravasa.

According to mythology, it is believed that Varanasi was founded by Lord Shiva. The Pandavas from the great epic Mahabharata also visited this pious city. It is one of the seven cities in which a person can attain Moksha. Hindus believe that one who is graced to die on the land of Varanasi would attain salvation and freedom from the cycle of birth and re-birth. The Ganges in Varanasi is believed to have the power to wash away the sins of mortals.

The archaeological evidence states that early settlements around Varanasi began in the 20th century B.C. It is acknowledged as the world’s oldest inhabited city. The historical remains state that Varanasi was populated by the people of the Vedic age. According to Atharvaveda, the oldest Vedic text, Varanasi was inhabited by the people from indigenous tribes. Recent excavations state the existence of the city must have been from onwards 1800 B.C. During the time of Gautama Buddha, the city of Varanasi was the capital of the Kashi Kingdom and became one of the revered industrial centers.

The famous Chinese traveler, Hiuen Tsang, visited this city in 635 AD and referred to it as a center of religious and artistic activities. During the British rule, like many place names in India, it was anglicized into Benares, the holy city of “Hindoos”.

These few lines by Mark Twain say it all: “Benaras is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend and looks twice as old as all of them put together”.

In modern Varanasi, as we see today, carries all the traces of ancient history – templates, ghats, heritage buildings, alleys, different kind of religious activities, and its people and in their faith and believe. Here you will be forced to think about history, human expectations, and how ancient Varanasi amalgamated with today’s society and how different it is from the other cities and why. In Varanasi, unlike any other city in the world, burning dead bodies is the main part of business and livelihood.

I have visited the Varanasi trice. For the 1st time, in 2007, I was with my wife and had a pleasant and lovely time, it was just after my marriage, we visited templates, did the shopping, and saw nearby areas. I didn’t explore Varanasi as such at that time. My 2nd visit was in 2015 with three photo buddies and I saw Varanasi with little more details – spent time in the ghats, saw different religious activities, walked in the alleys, eat street food, and talked to few people. It gave me an impression of today’s Varanasi. The chaotic rhythm, the narrowness of the alleys, colors of the street, old wooden doors and windows, carvings on historical buildings.

On 3rd visit, I was with five photo buddies and we walked together in the alleys, spent time in the market place, in the evening we sat on the ghats and trolled in old Varanasi areas for a shot. It’s undeniable that Varanasi has a lot to offer – as I saw more, I wondered. There are many things that attract eyes, many stories that compel to explore, and many coexistences that generate interest to dig down.

When I saw the water pipes in the alleys, somehow it triggered in my mind to make a photo story on this. As if these water pipes are the veins that connect the modern Varanasi with the ancient Kashi. Like they bring water from the deep underground, they are fetching glimpses of the ancient city from the past and establishing a communication channel between ancient history and today’s time. Like the roots of a tree, they are supplying the vital fluids to vibrant the city alive. I actually intrigued with these water-pipes mostly as I saw a resemblance with the roots or chain, or with a network or web that connects to the history of Varanasi and had a thought to depict ‘samyer mayajaal’. Varanasi is a living history, it’s more ancient than any modern city. Here I tried to portray a correlation with this concept and used water pipes as a metaphor. Not sure if it is a successful endeavor or not, but it definitely needs a few more trips and more compelling photos to establish the story.  

Varanasi is older than history, true, but in the city’s pulse, the coherence of ancient and modern times fascinates me to explore and understand Varanasi from a spiritual and social perspective. It’s worth going back to Varanasi again and again to find the roots. Varanasi, a labyrinth of time, kept the deep-rooted human characteristics beneath in it over the ages.